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September 18, 2005

The Commi Pub round the corner

The Nevsky bar described by a passing New Yorker sounds like this:

By day Via Crociferi is the hallowed center of Catanian spiritual power. By night it's... um... a big party. On the staircase leading from Via Crociferi towards the center there is a bar called Nevsky. It features a diverse crowd but they work to attract the socialist youth element, and they succeed. The bar itself is too small to accomodate and the staircase has become an extension of it and the other bars on the street. Positives: never seen anything quite like it, hundreds of people, lots of drinking. Negatives: the drug scene is here also. The staircase itself also gets pretty filthy by four o'clock. Those looking for a quiet romantic passeggiata should look elsewhere.

Back to local, I won't work it for the movie guide but I can get close. Foremost, I live just a block away from it and I normally walk to the place from top to almost midway stairway level, which is where the Nevsky is located. I would remember to go down slowly and cold enough to be able to screen the geography, which is always slightly different. It is true the stairs are a natural extension of the pub, a very small pub, and the outer can hold close to 250 scattered bodies.

A place like the Nevsky can essentially be described as a behavioral orgy.

The bar/place/service is irrelevantly standard if not for the Che-Che covered walls, no Red Bull (they serve a natural substitute energetic based on sugarcane) and filo-cuban menu, flags, outer walls and a few quirks in the drinking range. They have no pretty dancing bartender girls, only solid tanned and a bit aged socialist faces. Since the stairs act as a bowl for standing consumers and a few of the quirks are pretty constraining a stew of micro-competitors, some fake, flourished all around. These "other-places" serve Red Bull, shit beer (the draft at the Nevsky is excellent while bottled is limited) and more exotica (chill-out and the revival vodka-bacardi range).

The lower part of the stairs, bordering to a small hotel, holds for local mature regular couples or groups who may exploit the round tables & chairs and munch snacks, salads and have cocktails.

The top side borders to the renowned chock full of churches Via Crociferi, a Baroque nightmare, and holds locals, younger, loose or inarticulate groups, only apparently lacking a rigid hierarchy, that may look and act like punk gangs but have nothing in common with what you remember using the "punk" tag for. Here you'll find pot available, skunk and sometimes hash. Angels and cocaine-sniffers must be hiding well within the mess.

The mid-section is the largest, it holds drinkers from about everywhere and the draft-lovers, hard beer drinkers and expert survivalists. Survivalists are drinkers that are into the routine so much and well that you may spot them having Moretti for breakfast, then Heineken up to late afternoon and several naps and double-espresso strategically placed in between to stay alive until the evening.

Only the category living atop of the stairs can be seen really blitzed here, the rest enjoys a stoic machismo that is rule in socialist mythology.

Aggressive gay groups can be found laying on the side self celebrating their best screening abilities. These guys can scan deeply, select, make fun of obsolete trends, emerging ones or simply laugh at the tacky stuff passing by. Gays successfully encroach on neighbor's land if istigated. Lesbian couples, on the other side, exhibit a very traditional attire here, both formally and behaviorally these girls span/exhibit low interest in social intercourse outside the couple's range and can mostly be found at corners and edges. The mid and, god knows why, heterosexual bunch, inhabits the in-betweens. Here I've found simply tourist types, English collages and stranded hooligans (Manchester United especially), mid-milky and very uncertain boy groups and returners. Returners are those you have not met in forever and happen to meet again. This is the noisiest.

Sum'd up, best is the draft, vodka cocktails, which you can custom-order from the young-bold bartender my wife loves and some more exclusive touches I won't anticipate. Wine is present but, again, irrelevant. The local Nero sucks eggs. All in all the place is extremely enjoyable, lacking a few middle of the road, offering some cuban surprises, forcing sociality between foreigners like no other place and, by the way, music is never louder than the crowd.

Posted by lck at September 18, 2005 12:07 AM

Comments

Sounds like a hoot. The kind of place that almost makes me think longingly of my drinking days.

Posted by: elizabeth at September 19, 2005 03:32 AM

You make this staircase place sound....interesting. I can almost envision the mix of people there. Vaguely reminds me of the Riverwalk in San Antonio.

Which means it's another place I'd rather avoid at night. I'm not a drinker and I'm not really all that keen on watching others drink. So, sadly, a place like the Nevsky bar would be wasted on me.

Posted by: Ana at September 19, 2005 05:35 AM

Even if you don't drink it IS a great spot for people watching. The Commie pub does do a great pizza btw!

Posted by: zib at September 19, 2005 07:51 AM

Hmmm - could I knit in this bar while eating Pizza and not drinking?

Posted by: April at September 19, 2005 08:41 PM

Absolutely.
If you can knit and eat pizza at the same time I guess the commies will surrender and make honorable mention :-)

Posted by: lucky at September 19, 2005 09:19 PM

I found your post via your wife's blog.

Nevsky sounds as though it is a world within itself. Culture, class and, well, crass. This would definitely be a place that my husband would like to visit and partake of a beer or two, while I sipped something non-alcohol related and peered around the scene in eager amusement.

Posted by: K. Anne at September 22, 2005 05:11 PM

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